Fun in Funchal, 6
Today was a leisure day on the Travel Department itinerary. I had my leisure day yesterday – exploring Funchal. Today I did a second levada hike.
Above is the Risco waterfall, which is pronounced Reesh-ko. We hiked into the Rabacal valley. There were I think 19 people on this hike, again mostly German, Dutch, Danish. There were a few Brits.
It was an 11K hike, more difficult than the last because of 277 steps down, 160 up and 140 down.
The first steps, above, were to descend from one levada to another. The second pair of steps was to facilitate a one-way path to our second waterfall – the one-way path gets you to the waterfall, then on the return trip you go up the steps, through some woods, and down the steps to rejoin the main path. Yet some naughty people came back from the waterfall on the one-way path. We very politely flattened ourselves to let them by while judging them savagely LOL. They were all young fashionably dressed people, no doubt on their way to the next Instagram photo.
The second waterfall is called 25 Fontes, which means 25 springs, as so many springs issue forth from the cliff face.
Look how straight my arms are! I've made strides on this trip. At home I'm sure I do too much, particularly too much hoovering and keyboard time, which has irritated my tendons. The aching in both my elbows and the soreness in my wrist have definitely reduced on this trip.
Not sure if I noted early my doctor's appointment shortly before I left. She said it's too soon for physical therapy. I said 'but it's been six weeks.' She said, 'it's only been six weeks.' So physical therapy begins after I return.
On the way back, instead of going back up 277 steps, we took a tunnel that carries water to the south side of the island. It was 800 metres long!!! Or a half mile. It was a very good test of whether you have claustrophobia. I did well at least 3/4 of the way, and then I became anxious to see daylight. Being so far underground for so long does something to your mind.
I'd like to learn more about how the levadas were built. There were three tunnels on my last hike and this one. How were the tunnels made? How were the stone channels and paths built? It's a small island with a small population. Were slaves used? I know slaves were used in sugar cane, so not unlikely. Just like at the mining magnate's palace gardens, I didn't ask too many questions. Although we had an excellent guide and he could probably answer anything. He was very knowledgeable about plants and clearly loves the native laurel forests and heather tree forests.
After the hike, back to the hotel for a swim to calm down my trembling knees. These are very modest swims to try out my arms but the cold water feels so good on tired legs. Before dinner I walked to the nearby Reid's Palace to have a gander. It's a stately Edwardian hotel with a lovely veranda overlooking Funchal Bay. I had a delicious G&T – a perfect end to a perfect holiday. It was still light when I got there so I watched a cruise ship leave the bay while I waited for my drink. Very restful.
I enjoyed my final meal with my lovely travel companions. My favourites were Geraldine and her husband Mike, who ended up in hospital most of the time. Geraldine spent 40 years as a cook in the kitchen of a Sisters of Mercy school for children with special needs. She was the kindest person I've met in a long time. After Mike got out of hospital, they went the next day with a gift for the doctor who cared for him. She had been back and forth to the hospital every day and on the last day went again to show her thanks. Many of her sentences ended with "please God." Same for some of the other women I met.
On the trip I finished a book called Love After Love, which takes place in Trinidad. The women there finish their sentences with "God is love."
Our lovely trip had a rude finish. The Friday morning flight was at 6 a.m. so we were collected at the hotel at 3:30 a.m. But with Iain and the Travel Department running the show, no stress for me. No confusion about transport or check in or bags or anything. Although my bag was much much heavier going back (bottle of Madeira! decorative tile) and I was worried I would exceed the very stingy 10 kilogram allowance. If I exceeded it, the gate agent was too busy to care. So I got to keep all my loot.
I booked a bus with no time to spare. I ran through the airport to get to the baggage carousel. My bag was out pretty quickly, I got it and ran to the bus stop. the bus had closed it doors and the cargo door for luggage. A woman with the bus company got the guy to open the doors. I put my bag in (arms definitely hurting now) and climbed aboard. Whew. The alternative was wait an hour for the next bus. So I was home by 1pm and took himself for a long walk.
It was sunny and cold in Belfast – a lovely day to return to. I left temperatures in the low 20sC; it was 2C in Belfast, with snow on the hills.
21 and 22 Nov.